Tis the season …
Wouldn’t it be magical to ride the Riesenrad in a soft snowfall like this?
Who needs electric lights, anyway!
It’s getting to be that time of year, around the world, and Vienna is no exception. Many city streets are lined with small wooden booths selling Christmas goodies. Sure, there’s plenty of junk, but a few treasures to be found, as well. Call me cheesy, but a snowglobe with the Prater Riesenrad definitely makes me feel warm and fuzzy, a vibe that can be enhanced by a steaming cup of hot, spiced wine, some glowing candles and perhaps a slice of pumpkin cake, or a spicy sandwich topped with grated horseradish — trust me, it’s good!
Die Waldschänke …
Lunch – Bacon-stuffed dumplings baked with a royale and served in pan gravy.
Good times at the mall. I spoke briefly with these two gents about current events, then asked if I could snap their photo. They said, “Sure,” then followed up with a string of good-natured Austrian epithets spoken in a dialect so thick that I only understood about 20 percent.
After a few days of good old Central European gray and drizzly skies, the sun burst forth on Monday morning, so we headed up the hill to a local Waldschänke — a mountainside eatery that’s favored by hikers seeking a view over the broad Danube Valley around Linz. Don’t get me wrong. This isn’t the type of place that requires hours of strenuous slogging — more like a short walk up a country lane through farmyards and orchards, just enough exercise to work up a bit of an appetite for some country cooking.
Canadian Rockies on the approach to Seattle.
Amsterdam, recognizable by its distinctive pattern of canals, seen from a flight from Iceland to Frankfurt.
Coast highway, Iceland.
Hey there, Boston!
To me, one of the coolest things about traveling the jet age is the chance to see old and new landmarks from the air. As I’ve written before, I always try to get a window seat on long flights, unless it’s a red-eye. Ever since I was a little kid, I’ve been fascinated by maps. I remember tracing the paths of highways and the shape of coastlines, both familiar and unknown, on the dog-eared paper versions in my dad’s car, and following along as we traveled, anticipating the towns that were coming up. Air travel gives this game a whole new dimension. On a recent trip from Reykjavik to Frankfurt, I could see that the flight would take us near Amsterdam, one of my favorite cities, so when we approached the coast of Holland, I scanned the horizon. Sure enough, I was able to recognize the city from its network of canals that encircle the ancient central district like a spiderweb. For me, watching the scenery unfold from 35,000 feet is a free geography lesson. Call me a nerd, but I love it!
Day trip …
Limestone peaks tower above the Hinterer Langbathsee in the Salzburg Alps.
A touch of fall colors …
One guidebook says the water in these lakes is drinkable.
Shooting into the midday sun.
Just an hour away from Linz, the Alps rise, an impressive wall of limestone peaks towering above the rolling countryside of Upper Austria. Glacier-fed streams have carved deep gorges through the soft rock, and valley bottoms are punctuated by stunning lakes. But all is not well in this fairytale landscape. By some measurements, Austria is a global warming hotspot, and that spells trouble for the country’s glaciers and lakes. In a country that uses hydropower extensively, big changes to flow regimes in rivers and streams could have a huge economic impact. This summer’s drought and extreme heatwave in Austria was one of the worst on record, and many alpine glaciers visibly wasted away under relentless summer sun. Many lakes are expected to warm by 3 degrees Celsius by mid-century, with massive ecosystem changes in store. Learn more about climate change impacts in Austria here.
Provence light …
Evening dance at the Cafe de L’Univers in Brignoles, France.
Sunset in the square.
Morning light in Place Caramy.
The terrace awaits.
As a photographer, you can find good light almost anywhere in the world. But add in the charm of old, warmly painted buildings, the gleam of freshly washed cobblestones or the glow of evening streetlights in an ancient Provençal village, and it becomes pure magic. The small town of Brignoles isn’t a big tourist hotspot like nearby Aix en Provence, but it’s a great spot to hide out for a few days and settle into the rhythm of French life — early morning walks to a bakery for fresh baguettes and croissants, a mid-day Pastis under the awning, and an evening dance in the main square.
Paris pocket park with pingpong amenity.
Classic set of wheels along the rim road of the Gorge du Verdon.
Countryside around Rougon, Gorge du Verdon region.
Wildflowers near La Palud-sur-Verdon
Just another pizza shop in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie.
DENVER — With a little extra time between trains, I decided to walk the two miles between Gare du Lyon and Gare de l’Est, the two big international railway stations in Paris. The stroll, of course, leads past some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including the Place de la Bastille and the Sacre Coeur Basilica, but what I like best is just walking along the broad boulevards, jumbled with cafes, moped shops, E-bike charging stations and, in one spot, a beautiful little pocket park with an outdoor pingpong table, players lining up to challenge the victor of the previous game. The city has calmed its traffic considerably in the past 10 years, so instead of choking on exhaust fumes and being deafened by an onslaught of noisy traffic, it’s now much more pleasant to get around on foot in this world city. The old Citroën 2CV is another classic French icon, so when I saw one along the rim road of the Gorge du Verdon, I couldn’t resist snapping a quick shot. You don’t see to many of them any more.
The Grand Canyon of Europe
Near the mouth of the gorge, at the Lac de Sainte-Croix,, boaters and stand-up paddlers play in the water.
Afternoon sunlight at Pt. Sublime.
Grand Canyon of Europe.
During the last few days of this visit to the Provence, I finally had a chance to visit the Gorge du Verdon, where the Verdon River has cut an impressive path through the massive limestone plateau that characterizes much of the Provence region geologically. Along with all sorts of recreation, the gorge, through a trove of fossils and other evidence, has revealed many secrets of the prehistoric people who lived in the region. The canyon walls tower as high as 2,500 feet over the aquamarine water in places, and the winding roads along the rim offer great access to view points and to trailheads leading deep in to the heart of the canyon. Truly, the Grand Canyon of Europe!