Tag: surfing

Rising sea level threatens Southern California beaches

Without expensive measures, some strands will vanish by 2100

Dusk surfing sessions at many Southern California beaches are at risk from sea level rise. @bberwyn photo.
Surfing El Granada in central California. @bberwyn photo.

Staff Report

Scientists are warily watching the impacts of rising sea levels along the world’s coastlines, where a high percentage of the global population lives and works. In some areas — especially narrow strands are pinned between the open ocean and coastal mountains, beaches may vanish by 2100 as higher waves and bigger storm surges wash away the precious sand.

Even with efforts to bolster them, between 31 percent and 67 percent of Southern California beaches may be completely eroded, scientists said this month after using a new climate model to calculate the effects of 3 to 6 feet of sea level rise. Continue reading “Rising sea level threatens Southern California beaches”


Better info, more public awareness is the key to reducing shark attacks, researchers say

No evidence that culling sharks cuts risks

There are more great white sharks and more people in the ocean along the California coast, but the risk of shark attacks has decreased since the 1960s. Photo courtesy NOAA.
Researchers say shark attacks are more likely in the evening than during the day. @bbberwyn photo.

Staff Report

FRISCO — Even as many more people take to the water along the California Coast, the risk of being attacked by great white sharks has dropped considerably since the 1950s, according to Stanford University researchers who took a close look at shark attack statistics.

Their findings show that empowering people with information about how to avoid sharks is far more effective for public safety than trying to cull sharks. The scientists released their study results after a recent wave of shark attacks in North Carolina made headlines.

“You have a higher chance to win the lottery, a much higher chance to drown in the ocean, than to be attacked by a shark,” said Stanford researcher Francesco Ferretti. “At the same time, people need to approach the ocean with precaution and respect. We are entering the realm of predators and they are fulfilling their ecological role,” Ferretti said. Continue reading “Better info, more public awareness is the key to reducing shark attacks, researchers say”

Unraveling the secrets of ocean waves

Satellite tracking helps researcher develop a formula to predict swell decay

Surfers catch an evening wave at Half Moon Bay, Cailifornia, bberwyn photo.

By Summit Voice

FRISCO — Surfers have long tracked swells across thousands of miles of open ocean to try and predict when the best waves might hit their local beach, and new research by an Australian National University professor may help fine-tune those forecasts.

“Ocean cargo shipping, offshore oil and gas production, and even recreational activities such as surfing, are all dependent on wave action,” said Ian Young, vice-chancellor of ANU. “It is therefore critical that we are able to predict swell.”

Young, who is affiliated with the Research School of Earth Sciences, was interested in determining the rate at which ocean swells decay as they travel across the ocean, so he tracked them with orbiting satellites. The results showed that the decay of the swell depends on how steep the wave actually is.

“Steep waves decay very quickly. However, typical swell is not very steep and can travel across oceanic basins with only a relatively small loss of energy,” he said.

Over 200 individual cases were tracked, making this study the first to provide such comprehensive data of this decay.

“What we were able to do is track the swell from the satellite as it moved from the south to the north, some 1,400 kilometres. We only chose cases where there was no wind so that we could be confident that all we were measuring was the swell decay … We can take these results and put them into a mathematical formula that can be put straight into computer models used by national weather bureaus

“This will increase our ability to better predict wave action. As 70 per cent of the world’s oceans are dominated by swell, it’s extremely important to be able to predict them accurately,” he said.

It is estimated that 75 per cent of waves across the world are not actually generated by local winds. Instead, they are driven by distant storms which propagate as swell.

“For most of the Indian, Pacific and South Atlantic oceans, it is actually the weather in the Southern Ocean thousands of kilometres away that dominates the wave conditions … The Southern Ocean is dominated by big low pressure systems that move across it year round. These systems generate waves that then grow and can travel tens of thousands of kilometres from where they were actually formed, to crash on a beach in Australia.”

Professor Young’s research is published in the Journal of Physical Oceanography.

First World Surfing Reserve dedicated at Malibu

Riding a big Maverick's wave near Half Moon Bay, California. PHOTO FROM THE CREATIVE COMMONS, VIA WIKIPEDIA.

Surfers see the ocean when they look at the waves; if only snow riders and mountain bikers had a similar holistic preservation perspective …

By Summit Voice

SUMMIT COUNTY — Malibu’s Surfrider Beach was dedicated as the first Word Surfing Reserve Oct. 9, the first step toward protecting and preserving outstanding waves, surf zones and their surrounding environments around the world.

The World Surfing Reserve program is modeled after a similar effort in Australia, which recognizes the positive environmental, social, cultural and economic benefits of waves. Surf activists say they are developing a global network of surfing reserves in partnership with local communities with the goal of protecting the world’s most sacred surf spots, and in turn inspires local communities to protect their own cherished waves. Continue reading “First World Surfing Reserve dedicated at Malibu”