Travel: Eco adventures on the reefs of Belize

Leigh, at right, scopes out Cockroach Caye as guide Carlos Miller gathers driftwood for a cookout.

Snorkeling, kayaking and caving, with stops at Caye Caulker, Altun Ha and Aktun Tunichil Muknal

By Bob Berwyn

TURNEFFE ATOLL — It’s rare to hear a tropical island-dweller say anything good about hurricanes, so Leigh and I listen up as Carlos Miller explains how the storms lead to renewal and growth, and not just destruction. Bigger hurricanes can destroy mangrove stands like the ones we’re exploring on Cockroach Caye. But over time, the storms  flush sand off the reef and into the trees. The mangrove roots trap the sand to build new land, and the coral is swept free of choking sand, so the storms help sustain both parts of this intertwined ecosystem that plays a crucial role in transferring organic matter from land to ocean.

We’re in the middle of a snorkeling day about 30 miles from the Belize mainland, relaxing near a makeshift Robinson Crusoe shack on Turneffe Atoll. While chunks of foil-wrapped chicken sizzle fragrantly on a wood fire, Miller leads us around the tiny speck of land and explains how the mangroves are the marine nursery for the fish we’ve been seeing around the coral gardens of the atoll.


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